The Latest Watch Releases at SIHH for 2019
Updated: Feb 6, 2019
The watch world begins the new year with the SIHH fair in Geneva by showcasing their latest creations and novelties. The fair also attracts independent watchmakers introducing their new creations. Our resident advisor at the Bespoke Watch Advisory reports on 2019’s highlights..
Audemars Piguet has amalgamated their trademark octagonal shape with a round one, equipping the Code 11.59 collection with a double curved sapphire crystal promises to enhance the time viewing experience. One of the most respected names in high watchmaking, AP’s new collection also features everything from time and date models as well as perpetual calendars and chiming watches with striking dials. This collection also debuts the brands first in-house chronograph movement, something their collectors are sure to welcome.
Lovers of the classic Royal Oak line can now look forward to 38 mm chronographs, a new in house movement in the 41 mm simple time and date models and for those seeking something very elusive, there’s the 75 piece edition of the Jumbo with pink gold dial cased in 18k white gold.Since this launch, keeping my ears to the ground tells me they may be making 75 pieces each year since the response has been strong.
New for this year from Baume & Mercier is the rose gold perpetual calendar for gentlemen, helping you keep track of the time for years without touching the crown (or, more accurately, as long as you keep the power reserve from depleting)
Cartier have reintroduced the tonneau (barrel) shape, which will be made in small numbers in two variations, a skeleton dual time and the elegant roman numeralled versions. The square shaped Santos watch also comes back this year with a sparkling blue dial and joins the new Santos Chronographs with a new pusher set up that will appeal to Cartier followers who like to time their activities.
Girard Perregaux,one of my favourite brands, introduces an evergreen daily wear version of the Laureato luxury sport line with a perpetual calendar and gets celestial with the elegant blue aventurine dialled watch in their cat’s eye line for the ladies. Modern versions of the classic 1966 watch and Neo Bridges form part of the Earth to Sky editions with smoky blue dials and blackened cases. The highlight of this collection is without doubt, the Cosmos with a tourbillon, a sky chart and world time displays and a stunningly modern skeleton Laureato mens' timepiece with galvanized blue architecture. The Laureato Absolute watches with purplish dials and carbon cases with coordinated straps promises to attract well heeled millennial watch lovers this year.
IWC offers their pilot’s watches in many new avatars under their Spitfire and Top gear collections in bronze cases with military green dials. A brilliant Big Pilot perpetual calendar with green dial in a bronze case keeps it going for a week. The Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Flyback Chronograph with a Blue dial is another stunning new release for us complicated watch lovers out there.
Jaeger Le Coultre offers their Master Ultra Thin Perpetual with a blue enamelled case for 100 watch lovers only. The ladies can now look forward to jewellery versions of the Rendezvous Day Night collection. The highlight of the new releases is the ultra complicated Gyro tourbillon Perpetual Calendar with Westminster chiming. The most adorable new release is however, the Reverso Tribute Small Seconds with its wine red dial and coordinate leather strap.
The German company, A. Lange & Sohne celebrates their 25th Anniversary since their rebirth with an elegant version of the Lange 1 timepiece while their mechanical watch with a digital face, the Zeitwerk, gets a date backed by a brand new movement this year. There is also a new black and red dial for their Richard Lange jumping seconds regulator timepiece for all you watch geeks out there.Things get really complicated literally, with the solid pink gold dialled Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon which won my heart.
Vacheron Constantin, the oldest name in watchmaking, literally pushes the technical boundaries with their twin beat traditional perpetual calendar that promises to be a marathoner. Seriously, it runs for 65 days with a power saving mode that would make the founder,Jean Marc Vacheron jump with joy. A new Overseas tourbillon for men, as well as a solid pink gold version for the Overseas Perpetual join the sport luxury line.The brand continues its Metiers D'art collection with an animal theme this year, so if you want a Panda or a Tiger on your dial, they have it. The Fifty Six Collection sees a number of blue and grey dialled versions this year.
Bronze is the new Gold in these challenging times for the watch industry as Mont Blanc releases the 1858 Geosphere, with a green dial in a bronze case showing the globe in both hemispheres. Reading the time zones however, could have been made more precise on this one for frequent globetrotters. The limited edition Heritage perpetual calendar with a second timezone promises to be a useful daily watch while the 100 piece limited edition Heritage Spirit Pulsograph with a salmon dial shows off one the most beautiful Chronograph movements in the world from the case back. The watch that stands out for me is the 1858 Split Second chronograph with its black, red and white dial in a bronze case and a complex mechanical movement that looks so gorgeous, it would compel the wearer to watch the mechanical poetry in motion.
Panerai offers extreme experiences in the Arctic and with Italian navy frogmen with those of us who get their hands on the Luminor Sumbersible made from technical carbon.
Piaget traces their history with a return to stone dials, releasing the meteorite dial for their Altiplano formal watch. The casual sport Polo line offers a limited edition green dialled model this year.
Richard Mille puts bonbons and marshmallows in his watches this year, presumably to attract the next generation of his followers who may just prefer buying the candy independently of the watches and enjoying them.
Independent Laurent Ferrier who is known for his great finishes, introduced the Bridge One in a curved rectangular art deco case and a new in house hand wound movement with Enamel dial.
Hermes released one of the most beautiful watches of the fair in L’heure de la Lune, with either a blue aventurine or meteorite dial with revolving moon discs playing with each other over two months. The time and date are shown on two separate discs that seem to float on the dial in the company of moons.
Ulysse Nardin sure knows how to get their Freak X on many wrists, with a more wearable version of this watch, where the carousel movement housed within its hour and minute hands indicates the time in a light Carbonium case. Things get anorexic with the Skeleton X, for those of us who like to see the inner workings along with time that the brand has introduced in Carbonium, Titanium and Rose Gold in more wearable sizes.
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